Photographic Image Licensing Explained in 2 Minutes Flat!

So you are hiring a photographer to do some work for you and he/she mentions licensing. What is licensing, why do I have to deal with it and wouldn't it be easier if we just forgot the whole thing and you just give me the pictures?

Well, the short answer is that there are countless way to use and abuse a photograph that you might never imagine in a 100 years, but U.S. Copyright law is there to protect the artwork's creator when things get complicated.

Okay, so how do things get complicated?

Let's imagine you made a lovely painting of your dog. You show your painting at the state fair and it sells for the princely sum of $20. You hear a couple of years later that the painting is hanging over the mantel at the new owner's house, they love it and enjoy it everyday.

Now, what if you heard that the same couple, took a photo of your painting and shopped it around to the dog food companies, landing a big contract. They licensed your work to be used on dog food bags for 5 million dollars. Well, luckily for you that would be illegal, because you own the "intellectual property" of that painting. Even though you no longer own the physical painting. That is because the artist always owns the copyright to his or her own images. The couple could burn the actual painting or throw it away because they own it, but they cannot transfer the copyright because it was never theirs to sell.

Usually the dog food company would know better than to use an image that they don't have the rights to use. So, let's say the dog food company calls you up and wants to use your image, they want a very limited run of dog food bags and offer $500. Then, after you agree to the terms they decide to use your image for all of their products, a national ad campaign, billboards and every single dog food bag they make. They also decide that they already paid you so there will be no additional payment. Again, luckily for you, the dog food company didn't buy the copyright. They simply paid for a usage license specific to their needs. If the company decided to use your image on a big campaign then you would license your image based on how much use the image will get.

So what did we learn? First, the artist keeps the copyright for their creative work, and as such, the artist can go on to sell prints or license that very same image. Second, if you buy an image there is no transfer of copyright implied, so you can't share it with other businesses because it is not yours to give. Third, licensing is how you go about getting images for use in advertising, and the licensing is tailored to the way the image will be used.

So who wins when images are licensed for use? Everyone, the current system insures that images cannot be exploited by a third party, the artist gets paid for their work and the client pays only for what they need.

Read More

Unknown

Share Tweet Pin It +1

0 Comments

9 Setting Recommendations For New DSLR / Mirrorless Cameras

So you just bought a "serious" camera, whether it's a DSLR or Mirrorless camera, for the first time. The most fun is directly used. But then you see. That is available and start to confuse what with your new camera settings.

In this article, we will discuss and manage some basic DSLR / Mirrorless camera settings that will make it easier for you.

1. Memory Card

Go to the camera main menu, then search for format commands. In Nikon D5500 for example, you go to Menu >> Setup Menu >> Format. While in Fuji X-E2 and push Menu OK >> slide down in Setup Menu 3 >> Format.

2. Determine the Image Size and Quality

Because your camera is now quite "serious", it's good to make the best possible to produce images with the best quality available. Use the highest quality JPEG format (Extra Fine or Highest Quality) with Large file size. 

If interested in the RAW format that stores more photo information, you can also use it. Make sure you understand the difference between the image files with JPEG vs RAW format. When using RAW format, make sure your computer has enough software and specifications to read and convert RAW to standard format.

3. ISO

The ISO setting in the camera determines how much light money the camera needs to produce photos.

High ISOs such as the 6400 are useful when you shoot in a place with dim light but are at risk of producing photos with spots / noise. While a low ISO such as 100 or 200 produces images without clearer noise and with the best quality but make the photo vulnerable when you shoot blur indoors.
 
For the initial stage of use, the best ISO setting you can choose is Auto.

4. White Balance

The camera's white balance setting affects the color accuracy of the photos. As discussed in this article on white balance, skin color or color of the shirt may seem strange when the camera uses a white balance that does not fit.

Fortunately, today's cameras are so sophisticated that they rarely miss. Use the auto white balance setting as a prefix while experimenting with other white balance settings.

5. Metering

Metering settings determine how the camera measures the reflected light of the object then how they produce a combination of shutter speed and lens aperture that matches the measurement results.In the early stages of using your new DSLR / Mirrorless camera, use the Evaluative (Canon) metering mode or Matrix (Nikon). As the addition of flying hours with your camera, start using other metering modes according to the shooting conditions and objects that you photograph: center weighted, spot and others.Metering mode options can be understood in more detail in Understanding DSLR Camera Metering Modes.

6. Focus

The lens in the camera you use can automatically find focus by utilizing the camera's autofocus system or manually by rotating the focus ring on the lens.In this early stage, take advantage of the camera's autofocus (AF) system and use Single AF mode (One Shot AF or Single Area AF). In this mode, the lens will lock the focus at one point you have specified when you press the shutter button halfway. Use the midpoint of focus and start practicing so that your hand is frisky to change the focal point. 
 

Other AF mode options such as AI-Servo or AF-C can be used when you are shooting a child who keeps running. Discussion about autofocus mode you can read here.

7. Drive Mode

The camera mode drive determines the speed of the camera in taking exposure. Single Shot mode is suitable for most shooting conditions and everyday photo objects. Set the camera in this mode when you first use it. In this mode, whenever we squeeze the shutter button, the camera will make a photo.Another mode available is Continuous Mode, useful when shooting moving objects. The camera will continue to make photos as soon as we press the shutter button full, the mode of telling the senior photographers. There is also a Delay or Remote mode that can be used in other conditions. Read more about Drive Mode in this article.

8. Exposure mode

There are two fairly friendly modes for the new camera owner: Auto Mode, Scene and Program Mode. In both modes, the camera determines all or most of the camera settings so you can focus on taking pictures.Unfortunately when the camera is in both modes, many parameters are turned off the camera. On the first day, you can use one of the 3 modes.Next, start using Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority. And please also start experimenting with Manual mode. Re-read about Camera Exposure Mode.

9. How to Make Sharp Photo Result?

One of the most questions that go into the contact page is why the resulting photo remains blur, not sharp. Make sure you read 20 Tricks for Photo Sharp and know 5 Photo Cause Why Photo Not Sharp.  

Read More

Unknown

Share Tweet Pin It +1

0 Comments

How Digital SLR Camera Metering Works (DSLR)

Every modern digital SLR camera from its factory is equipped with technology called Metering Mode, Exposure Metering, Camera Metering or for more practical we call Metering that has been assembled therein. In this article we will try to understand what is metering? How it works as well as some major weaknesses that we have to face (underexposed & overexposed). In the next article, we further understand about metering mode (matrix / evaluative, center weighted & spot metering).

What is Metering? What is the point?

In principle, it is not unlike the roll meter used by the construction worker or the tape measure used by the tailor to measure the length, only this metering is used by DSLR cameras to measure light, which is relatively more subtle than measuring the length.Metering is used to measure the light seen by the camera (light coming into the lens). When we look at a photo object through the camera viewfinder, the light conditions in the object will be measured by the metering system. The main purpose of the camera metering system is to produce a photo that fits its exposure (read again concept exposure). Metering does this by analyzing the light darkness of a photograph object and then determining the amount of shutter speed, aperture and ISO so that the results of your photo fit, not too dark or not too bright.Hmm his dizziness .... Okay, so like this. Imagine your eyes. When you feel the glare of what you do? Squinting eyes instead! You unconsciously reduce the amount of light coming into your eyes so you do not glare (not too bright). Conversely, when you feel the light is too dim you automatically open your eyes wide. Squint your eyes or open your eyes wide so your eyes feel comfortable when you see (the right exposure), that's the job of camera metering system.

 How Camera Metering System Works & Weaknesses

When the camera sees the wall, the metering system will measure the amount of light (the darkness of the light) reflected by the wall (reflective). This is easy when all photo objects reflect the same amount of light.Fuss, in real world each object has a different level of reflection. When we take pictures of the sky, if the sky is perfectly blue the camera's metering will be easy to calculate exposure because there is only one bright level to calculate (blue). But when we shoot the sky with the addition of white clouds, metering must now discourage bright blue sky and bright white clouds and should strive to produce optimal exposure. Now add mountains and rows of trees into the photo object above, then the level of complexity metering gets complicated.How do the camera metering system designers anticipate this situation? The answer is to try to make the average light dark level of an object of any photo. Technically the average light dark for the camera metering system is 18% gray (18% gray or normal gray) - not too dark and not too bright - see photo below. A photo object with a reflection level of light that has a bright, complex darkness will be "domesticated" in this way.18% -abu-grayThis solution in general can indeed be used to take pictures of normal conditions. But when we are faced with the conditions for example you will photograph the face of friends with a perfect white background, the camera will make your friend's face darker because it should anticipate the white background and bring it towards the 18% gray aka underexposed. Or for example when you take a photo of a flower inside a small glass glass placed on a black tablecloth, the flower photo will be brighter than the original because it must bring the black tablecloth to 18% gray alias overexposed.

Then We Should How?

Just as we can not continuously use auto exposure, to produce great photos we can not use the camera metering system without some tricks (leave it in the default position). To be more clear, please read some metering modes that can help us anticipate the weakness of this metering system.

Read More

Unknown

Share Tweet Pin It +1

0 Comments

Exposure Mode In DSLR and Mirrorless Cameras

In any digital camera, whether a DSLR camera, a mirrorless camera or a sophisticated (rather sophisticated) pocket camera, there is always a wheel on the top of the camera where we can choose the camera operation mode: And they always have at least the following options: Auto, P, S (Tv), A (Av), M and Scene. You can see the camera mode wheel in this photo example:

 Note that Nikon and Sony use S and A notation, while Canon and Pentax use Tv and Av, both are the same but only different notations.This code is an abbreviation: Auto for Auto, P for Program Mode, S or Tv for Shutter Priority Mode, A or Av for Aperture Priority Mode, M for Manual Mode and Scene for automatic mode adjusted with object type option to be in photo.Let's take a look at the code and the camera mode options above for more details:

Auto mode

Auto mode is usually marked with a green camera icon, accompanied by the letter A. In this mode, the camera will attempt to analyze the object we are photographing and then define all camera settings. If there is a term point and shoot (shoot and then snap) without having to complicate change anything, this auto mode is meant.Looks fun is not it? Unfortunately the image in this mode can be said not maximal. In auto mode, the camera will determine the size of ISO, Shutter Speed, Aperture using the computer workflow determined by the camera manufacturer based on the light conditions when we press the shutter half (metering).When we shoot in a slightly complicated light, when sunset for example, the camera will be quite confused and then produce a photo that does not describe the sunset we want. Anyway, with you already buy a DSLR / Mirrorless camera that is more expensive than a tiny pocket camera or smartphone, continuous shooting using the auto mode it feels really so redundant.Overall, Auto Mode is eligible for the following conditions:

•     When we are too hasty, the important moment of his dapet, camera settings do not trigger
•     When you are really beginner, do not understand about the concept of exposure

In the latest generation of cameras, also available Intelligent Auto mode, this is the auto mode with the addition of features such as face detection, i-Contrast (Canon) or D-Lighting (Nikon). There is also a name Creative Auto where we can change the sharp space. If your camera is equipped with this, use the auto intelligent auto / creative mode compared to the usual auto mode, at least there will be an increase in the image.Keep in mind that while in auto mode, many options and camera settings will be turned off by the camera to make it easier for him to work.

Scene Mode

Scene mode is a choice of mode where we choose the type of object or certain scenes that we will photograph. Suppose we want to photograph a friend: turn the wheel mode to Scene position and then we select Portrait. In Scene Mode, the camera is equipped with camera settings commonly used in typical shooting situations.

Here are some types of situations provided in scene mode:

• Portrait: the camera will automatically narrow the sharp space (dpeth of field) so that the background becomes blur and make the model face more prominent (plus settings for skin tone and softening for smoother skin look).
• Landscape: when we take a scene, the camera will use a large sharp space so that the object near the lens to the farthest look sharp. Green and blue colors will also be more highlighted
• Macro (Close Up): when you want to capture a flower from close range or want to take a bowl of meatball before eating.
• Sports: used when we take pictures of fast-moving objects. The camera will move to the focus method that tracks the movement of the object.
• Night Portrait: used when we want to photograph the face at night. Flash will automatically turn on
• Sunset / Sunrise: explain enough, used when we want to shoot sunset or sunrise
• Fireworks: to shoot fireworks using a very slow shutter speed
• Beach / Snow: the camera will compensate to avoid under-exposed photos as it measures the white background
• Some other scene mode options depend on camera type and brand

Program Mode (F)

While in Program Mode (P) the camera will automatically determine the size of the shutter speed and aperture settings. Even so, we can change the combination of aperture or shutter speed. 
gambar
The camera will try to balance between the shutter and the aperture, if we aim the lens to a bright area, the aperture number automatically enlarges while the shutter speed is maintained at a fairly fast rate. Point the camera to the dark area and the aperture numbers will shrink to keep the shutter from blurry.

The way to change the settings the camera has selected is to rotate the camera control wheel. If we turn the dial to the left then the camera will be "forced" to slow the shutter speed and increase the aperture. If you dial the dial to the right, the camera will be "forced" to speed up the shutter speed and minimize the aperture.

Program mode in more detail is also discussed in this article.

Shutter Speed Priority Mode (S or Tv)

In shutter priority mode, we manually set the shutter speed and the camera automatically selects the aperture value based on the amount of light entering through the lens.

This mode we can use when the shutter speed is the most critical setting: for example when will freeze the movement of objects that move quickly (need a very high shutter speed) or if we deliberately want to create a photo blur (need a low shutter speed). Similarly, when we want to use photo panning techniques as below, moving to the shutter mode priosity will greatly facilitate the work:...

When panning with 1/10 second time, the shutter priority mode is used   

If there is too much light, then the aperture number will enlarge (narrow lens openings) so that the amount of light entering the lens will decrease. If too little light enters the lens then the aperture number will decrease (enlarged lens openings) so that more light into the lens.So in shutter priority mode, the shutter speed value will be constant unchanged according to our settings, while the aperture value will vary depending on the amount of light. Also read: 6 Creative Speed ​​Shutter Techniques Landscape Photography.

Aperture Priority Mode (A or Av)

In aperture priority mode, we define the aperture setting manually and the camera determines the size of the shutter speed according to the amount of light entering the lens. Using this mode, we have full control over the depth of field, because we can lower or raise the lens aperture and let the camera count the shutter speed.Using aperture priority mode is a safe way to use the camera because the risk of photo under-exposed (dark) or over-exposed (too light) is quite small. Why? Because the value of its range camera shutter is quite wide: from 30 seconds to 1/4000 seconds (or 1/8000 seconds on a particular camera), and the range of such numbers is wide enough for a variety of light shooting situations. 

For a front puddle to look as sharp as the end of the bridge on the far side, aperture priority is used and set in f / 14 

About aperture priority mode, please read the article that discusses more here.

Manual Mode (M)

As the name implies, we determine the camera aperture and shutter speed manually completely. The camera will only do light measurements and make recommendations via metering scale, but will not do anything other than that.This mode can be used when photographing a photo object whose lighting conditions make the camera "confused". An example is when we photographing friends on the beach is very bright, the camera may misjudge exposure so that the face of friends so black so the sand on the beach is not over-exposed. In this condition, we can use manual mode, metering with spot metering by measuring exposure on the face of friends and then determine the aperture and shutter speed manually based on the results metering earlier. The result is a photo that is more concerned about the face of friends and subordinate the beach.Manual mode is also useful when for example we photographed panorama, in order to happen consistency. Panoramic photos are generated from some stitched photos, and the aperture and shutter speed values ​​should always be consistent so that the end result of the panoramic photo will be consistent, not the dappled, dark and bright. Another example of use is shooting sessions using a variety of flash (flash) in the studio that will be difficult to measure by camera metering and requires a separate lightmeter.To change after shutter speed and aperture, when you use a camera that has only one control wheel (command dial), turning the control will change only one: aperture or shutter speed. Other settings are changed by rotating the control wheel while pressing the exposure compensation button.Bulb Mode (B)Bulb mode is one of the special settings of the camera, where we can use the shutter speed above 30 seconds, even we can use the shutter speed as long as we want. Maximum shutter speed range on the DSLR / mirrorless camera when using other modes will stuck at 30 seconds, well with this bulb mode we can use the shutter speed far exceeded this figure.The word bulb appears because in ancient times, our grandparents who became photographers use a bubble of wind in a rubber (bulb) that suppresses the shutter mechanism so it opens. 

Bulb mode is required to create photos with this 120 second exposure time. 

What is bulb mode, how to use and examples of its use are discussed in this article.

Note :

These are the types of modes we can choose for different shooting conditions and skill levels. No one will make fun of you because more often using auto mode, but auto mode will limit the creative power that can be achieved with your camera. Accustomed to using auto or Scene, try turning to A or Av, aperture priority, and staying there all day. The majority of professional photographers spend more than 75% of their camera settings in aperture priority mode. Worth a try, and you will be amazed by your own skills. 

Read More

Unknown

Share Tweet Pin It +1

0 Comments

Camera Settings - Drive Mode: Single, Continuous, Remote and Timer

One of the requests or questions most readers say is about setting / camera settings. About which button does what to produce what kind of photos. Well belfot will try to describe it one by one. This time about Drive Mode.Before going too far, I want to limit this article to DSLR cameras, mirrors and pocket cameras that support manual settings. In the pro camera, a dedicated button is usually available for almost all basic setting functions. While in beginner camera, because the number of buttons is limited so as not to be confusing, the photographer must go into the menu and change the camera settings from there.Ok, back about Drive Mode. Drive mode is one of the basic camera settings. Each mode is available to give the photographer an option when photographing the subject type and specific shooting conditions (will be explained later).The majority of cameras have at least 3 drive mode settings: Single, Continuous and Continuous High (super fast). But generally also provides options such as timer 2 seconds and 10 seconds and others.

How to change drive mode in camera

You can change drive mode in different ways depending on the type and brand of camera you use. Example how to change drive mode from menu like this:

 Or if your camera has a button or a control wheel, you can change it by rotating this wheel:

While in the mirrorless camera, drive mode is available like this:

Drive Mode: Single Shot

Single SHot is the default choice for all cameras, so when you start the camera for the first time after purchasing it, the drive mode option will be in Single Shot. Single Shot Mode Drive option can be used for shooting situation mayotitas: when shooting landscape, photographing stylish girlfriend, photographing food before uploading to Instagram, photographing used cameras to be sold, photographing friends posing at kopdar event etc. In essence, Single Shot is used when you take pictures in ordinary conditions: objects that do not move or pose, The advantage of shooting in Single Shot mode is? We do not have to worry about most taking photos because for every once shutter button is fully depressed, only one photo is generated, as opposed to the continuous mode drive as below.

Drive Mode: Continuous / Burst  

In the Continuous or Brust drive mode options, the camera will still shoot and take photos continuously as long as we press the shutter button. With this mechanism, we will be very helpful when we have to take pictures of moving subjects quickly: children who run without clear direction, photographing futsal games etc., where we want to get a series of photos in a fast sequence. Our task will be to choose which photo is considered the best and will be used because it now has dozens, even hundreds of photos resulted from this mode drive.

Some cameras have further options in this drive mode: Continuous High (H) and Continuous Low (L), super high speed and low speed.

Low: In Low Continuous, the camera will take photos in a streak at a low speed. This option is given when we are photographing a moderately moving subject and we do not want to run out of memory cards in no time. Example: photographing a sack race.

High: When shooting fast-paced actions and subjects, this option will take advantage of the camera's ability to snap the fastest streak of photos. If the camera specification is capable of shooting 12 frames per second in JPEG format, then while in Continuous High, the camera will attempt to generate 12 JPEG images when we press the shutter button in 1 second without removing it (influenced many things: card speed, focal speed etc. ). Example of use: photographing karapan sapi or sprint sprint race.

Drive Mode: Self-Timer

The Self Timer mode gives the pause time between when the shutter button is pressed and when the camera takes a photo, there will usually be 2 pause time options: 2 seconds or 10 seconds. Drive mode is useful when we have no friends but want to take pictures, just put the camera on a tripod then use the Self Timer mode 10 seconds and run to the front of the camera. Self Timer is also useful when you shoot long exposure with a shutter speed above 1 second and do not want to hand to shake the shutter button makes the camera shake and cause the photo is not sharp.

Drive Mode: Remote

In this mode drive, the function of the shutter button will be taken over by the remote control (remote control), both using wired or wireless. This mode is used by many landscape photographers who use the remote to produce super sharp photos by installing the camera on a tripod and never directly touch the shutter button to reduce vibration.
Dive Mode: Silent or Quiet

Drive mode is useful when we have to take pictures in a place that demands a quiet atmosphere: sacred religious events etc. In this mode, DSLR cameras will move the mirror box more slowly so as not to make a loud noise but the speed of taking photos is reduced. The mirrorless mirrorless camera will leave a mechanical shutter and then use an electronic shutter mechanism to produce a quieter sound in this Silent model.

Drive Mode: Mirror Lock Up

Drive Mirror Lock-Up mode is only available in DSLR cameras. In this mode, the mirror box will be locked in an open position so that no more mirror box swings just before taking a picture. Before activating Mirror Lock-Up mode, make sure the focal point and composition of the photos you have compiled in the viewfinder. Mirror Lock-Up is often used landscape photographer to reduce camera shake so that the resulting image sharper.Some Tips Using Drive Mode

Check Drive Mode camera before taking a picture

Sounds trivial but many have forgotten to make sure in what mode drive the current camera before you start playing jeprat-snap. It's shame if it turns out the camera is in the position of Self Timer or Remote, but your friend is busy monyongin lip waiting photographed ..Use Continuous Drive Combination Mode and Continuous AFWhen shooting a moving subject and we use Continuous drive mode, use Continuous AF focus mode (more about camera focus mode) when camera is over locked focus in single AF mode, so the camera will track the subject position and possibly get photo with subject The sharp becomes bigger.Use Remote or Self-Timer or Mirror Lock-Up when shooting long exposureWhen shooting with a shutter speed above 5 seconds and using a tripod, the self timer / remote / mirror lock-up drive mode will greatly help us get very sharp images when enlarging 100% photos because with this mode the camera will be solid not moving the same once.     

Read More

Unknown

Share Tweet Pin It +1

0 Comments

Auto Focus DSLR Camera

Currently almost all DSLR cameras are equipped with several options the way the camera to autofocus (autofocus mode). Photographing the vase of the silent flowers on the table would require a different way of autofocus by photographing a small child who was dribbling in the field. Deliberately this time the discussion about autofocus and not manual focus so not too long.

When shooting still objects, we usually use a single focal point, locking the focus once a new shoot. But when shooting objects / people are always moving to move position, we need a camera that is able to move the focal point automatically follow the project. The good news is that DSLR cameras come with those features. Let's take the surgery one by one:

Single Area Autofocus Mode

In Canon DSLR cameras are named "One Shot AF" while in Nikon DSLR cameras are named "Single Area AF". From the name is quite clear that we choose a focal point and then the camera will look for contrast in one area of that focal point. When we press the shutter button halfway or press the AF-On button (if using a DSLR camera with dedicated AF-On button), the camera will lock the focus at that point once. If the subject moves the position and even if we keep the button halfway shutter, the camera will not move focus automatically.In this mode, we will not be able to squeeze full shutter (take photos) before the camera can lock the focal point. But this provision can be tricked through the settings in the autofocus menu and set the focus priority.

Autofocus Continuous Mode / AI Servo

This mode is DSLR cameras Nikon is named "Continuous / AF-C" while in Canon is named "AI Servo". This mode is used when we have to follow a subject photo that continues to move position, for example when we photographing sport, animals or cars that are going.

In this mode, the camera will release subject movement and predict where the subject moves by placing the focal point slightly preceding the subject's existence. With Continuous mode, we can follow subject movement and get sharp focus. The trick is to continue punching half of the shutter button while aiming the movement of the subject or by pressing the AF-On button with the thumb (if any).

Hybrid Autofocus Mode / Mixed Between Single & Continuous

The Canon DSLR camera is named "AI Focus" while Nikon is named "AF-A". It is a mixed focus mode between single and continuous where the camera will change focus from single to continous or vice versa according to subject subject condition. If the photographed still the camera will use Single while the camera moving object will switch to Continuous mode.Not all types of DSLR cameras have this mode. For beginners, this mode selection is actually quite helpful because there is no need to change the focus mode.Which Autofocus Mode Should You Use?The actual conclusion is quite simple:

• When shooting silent objects or people who pose please use Single mode
• When shooting moving objects constantly, use Continuous mode
• For everyday purposes, you can leave the camera by default in continous mode or hybrid mode. New when the camera can not lock the focus in Continuous mode, for example when shooting in dark conditions please move to Single mode.
• For beginners whose hands are not yet very agile to change the focus mode quickly, you can use the hybrid mode (if there is a camera there).

How to Change Focus Mode?

How to change focus mode is not the same from one camera to another camera. For that I recommend check in each manual. In the Nikon D300s / D700 camera, you can find the small hooks on the left side of the lens mount: AF-S, AF-C and M (safe). While in Canon (eg EOS 60D), you can change the focus mode by pressing the AF button at the top of the camera and the focus mode will appear in the LCD panel above.   

Read More

Unknown

Share Tweet Pin It +1

0 Comments